Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Just desserts


An all-sweets shindig is a great way to splurge on flavor--not your bottom line. L.A. pastry chef Diana Sproveri of Di's Kitchen, whose fans include David Schwimmer and Jennie Garth, dishes on how to host a delicious dessert party ... even if you can't bake.


MINI MILK 'N' COOKIES (right) Bake or buy chocolate chip cookies to sit atop milk-filled shot glasses. If making your own, use small scoops of dough; if buying, try a small cookie like Mrs. Field's Nibblers ($20 for 24; mrsfields.com). Use 3-oz. shot glasses ($4.50 for 10; smartyhadaparty.com).GO RETRO Desserts feel old-fashioned--in a good way. Pick up vintage dishes at a secondhand store and, if you stick to one color, don't be afraid to mix and match styles. That's part of the fun.* BUDGET BONUS Desserts are deliciously cheap compared with dinner ingredients or a full bar.SHAKE IT UP Plan to have lots of different desserts (brownies, sugar cookies, cupcakes, lemon squares) to make the party feel festive. Estimate at least four or five sweets per person.QUALITY CHECK If you're not baking, try to source desserts from local bakeries, not the packaged-cookie aisle of the grocery store. Preservatives affect taste.Di's 5-minute recipesHow to get the lookKEEP PORTIONS SMALL "Don't serve anything larger than a regular-size cupcake," says Sproveri. Tip: Softer desserts can be chilled in the freezer, then cut into small squares or other shapes.* BUDGET BONUS A few quick styling ideas elevate the look of your party at little cost. Goodwill is a great place to stock up on vintage cake plates, jars, glassware, and serving pieces.UPGRADE YOUR COOKIE JAR Display cookies in glass apothecary vessels with a pair of tongs.KEEP THE PALETTE SIMPLE Stick to one or two shades for dishes and linens: "The food is the star of the show, so don't overwhelm the table with too many colors," says Sproveri.DON'T FORGET THE DRINKS! "Sweets make us thirsty," Sproveri says. Set up a separate table with wine or Champagne, coffee, tea, or hot chocolate, and an ice bucket with pitchers of water and milk.PLAY WITH HEIGHTS "Different levels add to the appeal of the food," says Sproveri, who arranges cupcakes on towers and mini cakes and bars on tiers and cake plates.Tip: Use espresso cups for hot chocolate and martini glasses for milk.What to serveCHEESECAKE WITH BLACKBERRY COULIS (above) Cut a frozen cheesecake like Safeway Select New York Cheesecake into 1-inch squares and refrigerate. In a blender, puree 2 cups blackberries with 2 tbsp. sugar. Pour the coulis onto small plates and place cheesecake squares on top. Serves 12.

MINI MILK 'N' COOKIES (right) Bake or buy chocolate chip cookies to sit atop milk-filled shot glasses. If making your own, use small scoops of dough; if buying, try a small cookie like Mrs. Field's Nibblers ($20 for 24; mrsfields.com). Use 3-oz. shot glasses ($4.50 for 10; smartyhadaparty.com).




As you like it: Washington, D.C.'s Columbia Room gives guests a flavorful glimpse of the potable process


Near Washington, D.C's Convention Center, tucked behind a closed door, adjacent to older brother Tom's more raucous bar The Passenger, Derek Brown's intimate Columbia Room is a dreamlike, Zen-like ode to the expertly crafted drink. Metallic, tag-adorned bottles and jars of herbs, roots, tinctures and bitters line backbar shelves as if in a nineteenth century apothecary--undeniably effective cure alls for the common cocktail. The bar's recessed lighting, neutral tones and green touches evoke the subdued and inviting feel of a day spa, one where the well-made Martini can deftly stand in for a deep tissue massage.


But despite an atmosphere that on paper sounds esoterically exclusive, in reality hospitality at the Columbia Room is gracious and decidedly inclusive. Approachability, rather than elitism, is the goal here. Travels to Japan sparked Brown's interest in incorporating the concept of omakase into the buzz-worthy bar he launched last year. Translated to "it's up to you" and akin to the exchange between a sushi chef and a diner, omakase behind the stick allows the mixologist creativity carte blanche, while giving guests input about what goes into the shaker. "I take notes from small Japanese bars in Tokyo but let people in on the process of making cocktails," he explains.A FOCUS ON PAIRINGS AND INTERACTIVITYA visit to the Columbia Room, recently named by Bon Appetit magazine as one of the top ten new cocktail bars in the United States, involves a bit more than strolling in and bellying up to the bar. To assure a civilized experience, advanced reservations are required to secure one of ten coveted seats and guests are encouraged to "go all out" and dress up for the occasion. A $64 tasting menu includes three drinks and a small plate from the kitchen. An a la carte option is also available. Patrons opting for the former start with an opening drink that could range from a Champagne cocktail to a warm mug of mulled wine, depending on the season.Hour-long classes held on Saturday afternoon, starting at $65 per person, touch on topics ranging from attractive yet practical garnishes and Pisco, to the secret behind that perfect Martini (the Columbia Room was lauded recently by GQ magazine as offering the best Martini in America). "Our classes are almost like elective courses for mixology--focusing on either techniques or flavors," explain Brown. Attendees run the gamut from fellow "cocktail nerds," as Brown describes himself to veritable amateurs seeking to become confident home bartenders.Kelly Magyarics is a wine and spirits writer, and wine educator, in the Washington D.C. area.Brown has a fervent interest in pairing cocktails with food, and the prix fixe menu's second course lets him flex his bar-chef muscles. He muses that "lines that have been blurred between cooking and bartending are [now] redrawn as this: bartending is a branch of the food arts." Inventive fork-and-bottle combinations have included a Pomegranate Golden Gin Fizz with Old Tom Gin paired with Frisee Salad with Pomegranate Vinaigrette, Lardons and a Poached Quail Egg; and the Calvados- and Dubonnet-based Arnage with celery and aromatic bitters, served alongside Chicken and Apple Sausage with a Cabernet Reduction, Celery Root Puree and Espelette Pepper. An upcoming libation will feature Oude (old) Genever, Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur and the Columbia Room's Forbidden Fruit and Lemon Bitters, partnered with Steamed Local Clams in Sake and Ginger.Any venue, regardless of size, theme, location or quantity of drinks served per evening, can benefit from a dash or two of Brown's philosophy. "Be open to talking to people, answering questions and having conversation," he recommends. "Making a great drink is important, but your goal is to make people happy."

Kelly Magyarics is a wine and spirits writer, and wine educator, in the Washington D.C. area.




Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Paige Benjamin: the owner of South San Francisco's passiflora designs shares ideas for the California holiday table


Easy decorating tips for Thanksgiving? Pair outdoor elements from your backyard with interesting vessels. San Francisco's Coast Wholesale Florist (open to the public; closed Sun; coastwholesaleflorist.com) has everything from moss balls to birch vessels and chaparral that adds interest to the table. For a modern look, I like to use a lot of orange and rust tones with pops of chartreuse. But you can also use mini pumpkins, California-grown roses, and burgundy hydrangeas. Another idea is to fill glass apothecary jars with manzanita, acorns, and viburnum berries.


Quick getaways for inspiration? Filoli (holiday programs this month and next; filoli. org), a big estate with formal gardens in Woodside, is so peaceful. I also love the Conservatory of Flowers ($5; conservatory offlowers.org) in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park. And Cornerstone Gardens (cornerstonegardens.com) in Sonoma. They have a more contemporary style of gardening and interesting garden art.Your go-to spots for good finds? I hit the Alameda Antiques and Collectibles Faire (first Sun of each month; antiquesbythe bay.net) for old tin flowerpots, teakettles, and 1950s milk-glass bottles. For rustic urns and unique containers, I head to Sonoma's Artefact Design & Salvage (artefactdesignsalvage.com).* BUDGET BONUS A few quick styling ideas elevate the look of your party at little cost. Goodwill is a great place to stock up on vintage cake plates, jars, glassware, and serving pieces.

FOR A HANDY LIST OF BENJAMIN'S TIPS, GO TO sunset.com/weekend




Author: Jennie Nunn


Just desserts


An all-sweets shindig is a great way to splurge on flavor--not your bottom line. L.A. pastry chef Diana Sproveri of Di's Kitchen, whose fans include David Schwimmer and Jennie Garth, dishes on how to host a delicious dessert party ... even if you can't bake.


KEEP PORTIONS SMALL "Don't serve anything larger than a regular-size cupcake," says Sproveri. Tip: Softer desserts can be chilled in the freezer, then cut into small squares or other shapes.GO RETRO Desserts feel old-fashioned--in a good way. Pick up vintage dishes at a secondhand store and, if you stick to one color, don't be afraid to mix and match styles. That's part of the fun.A visit to the Columbia Room, recently named by Bon Appetit magazine as one of the top ten new cocktail bars in the United States, involves a bit more than strolling in and bellying up to the bar. To assure a civilized experience, advanced reservations are required to secure one of ten coveted seats and guests are encouraged to "go all out" and dress up for the occasion. A $64 tasting menu includes three drinks and a small plate from the kitchen. An a la carte option is also available. Patrons opting for the former start with an opening drink that could range from a Champagne cocktail to a warm mug of mulled wine, depending on the season.UPGRADE YOUR COOKIE JAR Display cookies in glass apothecary vessels with a pair of tongs.But despite an atmosphere that on paper sounds esoterically exclusive, in reality hospitality at the Columbia Room is gracious and decidedly inclusive. Approachability, rather than elitism, is the goal here. Travels to Japan sparked Brown's interest in incorporating the concept of omakase into the buzz-worthy bar he launched last year. Translated to "it's up to you" and akin to the exchange between a sushi chef and a diner, omakase behind the stick allows the mixologist creativity carte blanche, while giving guests input about what goes into the shaker. "I take notes from small Japanese bars in Tokyo but let people in on the process of making cocktails," he explains.Tell us about your Studio Bloom classes. The next class is November 17 ($60 for lecture and materials; passifloradesigns.com), and we'll be using different kinds of pods, berries, mini pumpkins, squashes, and gourds. You'll go home with a great arrangement for your Thanksgiving table.What to serveDON'T FORGET THE DRINKS! "Sweets make us thirsty," Sproveri says. Set up a separate table with wine or Champagne, coffee, tea, or hot chocolate, and an ice bucket with pitchers of water and milk.Hour-long classes held on Saturday afternoon, starting at $65 per person, touch on topics ranging from attractive yet practical garnishes and Pisco, to the secret behind that perfect Martini (the Columbia Room was lauded recently by GQ magazine as offering the best Martini in America). "Our classes are almost like elective courses for mixology--focusing on either techniques or flavors," explain Brown. Attendees run the gamut from fellow "cocktail nerds," as Brown describes himself to veritable amateurs seeking to become confident home bartenders.Any venue, regardless of size, theme, location or quantity of drinks served per evening, can benefit from a dash or two of Brown's philosophy. "Be open to talking to people, answering questions and having conversation," he recommends. "Making a great drink is important, but your goal is to make people happy."During an evening at the Columbia Room, Brown enthusiastically answers questions and offers up tips and anecdotes for spirits newbies and curious cocktailians alike. This accessibility is most apparent in the final tasting course, where Brown queries guests to glean information about flavor and base spirit preferences before creating a customized drink for each one. "We've noticed lots of requests for whiskey drinks," he notes, including classic and modern riffs on the Manhattan, Sazerac and Old Fashioned. Beverages with unusual bitter elements also frequently cross the bar. "We've made some fig bitters in house that have been aging in barrel for about two months now and are delicious in an Old Fashioned."QUALITY CHECK If you're not baking, try to source desserts from local bakeries, not the packaged-cookie aisle of the grocery store. Preservatives affect taste.* BUDGET BONUS Desserts are deliciously cheap compared with dinner ingredients or a full bar.How to get the lookSTYLE LIKE A PRO Her trick to pump up humdrum desserts like brownies: "Cut them in small squares, dust with powdered sugar, and place in fanned-out mini-muffin liners."PLAY WITH HEIGHTS "Different levels add to the appeal of the food," says Sproveri, who arranges cupcakes on towers and mini cakes and bars on tiers and cake plates.

MINI MILK 'N' COOKIES (right) Bake or buy chocolate chip cookies to sit atop milk-filled shot glasses. If making your own, use small scoops of dough; if buying, try a small cookie like Mrs. Field's Nibblers ($20 for 24; mrsfields.com). Use 3-oz. shot glasses ($4.50 for 10; smartyhadaparty.com).




As you like it: Washington, D.C.'s Columbia Room gives guests a flavorful glimpse of the potable process


Near Washington, D.C's Convention Center, tucked behind a closed door, adjacent to older brother Tom's more raucous bar The Passenger, Derek Brown's intimate Columbia Room is a dreamlike, Zen-like ode to the expertly crafted drink. Metallic, tag-adorned bottles and jars of herbs, roots, tinctures and bitters line backbar shelves as if in a nineteenth century apothecary--undeniably effective cure alls for the common cocktail. The bar's recessed lighting, neutral tones and green touches evoke the subdued and inviting feel of a day spa, one where the well-made Martini can deftly stand in for a deep tissue massage.


CHEESECAKE WITH BLACKBERRY COULIS (above) Cut a frozen cheesecake like Safeway Select New York Cheesecake into 1-inch squares and refrigerate. In a blender, puree 2 cups blackberries with 2 tbsp. sugar. Pour the coulis onto small plates and place cheesecake squares on top. Serves 12.MINI MILK 'N' COOKIES (right) Bake or buy chocolate chip cookies to sit atop milk-filled shot glasses. If making your own, use small scoops of dough; if buying, try a small cookie like Mrs. Field's Nibblers ($20 for 24; mrsfields.com). Use 3-oz. shot glasses ($4.50 for 10; smartyhadaparty.com).Brown has a fervent interest in pairing cocktails with food, and the prix fixe menu's second course lets him flex his bar-chef muscles. He muses that "lines that have been blurred between cooking and bartending are [now] redrawn as this: bartending is a branch of the food arts." Inventive fork-and-bottle combinations have included a Pomegranate Golden Gin Fizz with Old Tom Gin paired with Frisee Salad with Pomegranate Vinaigrette, Lardons and a Poached Quail Egg; and the Calvados- and Dubonnet-based Arnage with celery and aromatic bitters, served alongside Chicken and Apple Sausage with a Cabernet Reduction, Celery Root Puree and Espelette Pepper. An upcoming libation will feature Oude (old) Genever, Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur and the Columbia Room's Forbidden Fruit and Lemon Bitters, partnered with Steamed Local Clams in Sake and Ginger.A FOCUS ON PAIRINGS AND INTERACTIVITYSHAKE IT UP Plan to have lots of different desserts (brownies, sugar cookies, cupcakes, lemon squares) to make the party feel festive. Estimate at least four or five sweets per person.Kelly Magyarics is a wine and spirits writer, and wine educator, in the Washington D.C. area.FOR A HANDY LIST OF BENJAMIN'S TIPS, GO TO sunset.com/weekend

Kelly Magyarics is a wine and spirits writer, and wine educator, in the Washington D.C. area.




Author: Kelly A. Magyarics