As you like it: Washington, D.C.'s Columbia Room gives guests a flavorful glimpse of the potable process

Near Washington, D.C's Convention Center, tucked behind a closed door, adjacent to older brother Tom's more raucous bar The Passenger, Derek Brown's intimate Columbia Room is a dreamlike, Zen-like ode to the expertly crafted drink. Metallic, tag-adorned bottles and jars of herbs, roots, tinctures and bitters line backbar shelves as if in a nineteenth century apothecary--undeniably effective cure alls for the common cocktail. The bar's recessed lighting, neutral tones and green touches evoke the subdued and inviting feel of a day spa, one where the well-made Martini can deftly stand in for a deep tissue massage.

CHEESECAKE WITH BLACKBERRY COULIS (above) Cut a frozen cheesecake like Safeway Select New York Cheesecake into 1-inch squares and refrigerate. In a blender, puree 2 cups blackberries with 2 tbsp. sugar. Pour the coulis onto small plates and place cheesecake squares on top. Serves 12.MINI MILK 'N' COOKIES (right) Bake or buy chocolate chip cookies to sit atop milk-filled shot glasses. If making your own, use small scoops of dough; if buying, try a small cookie like Mrs. Field's Nibblers ($20 for 24; mrsfields.com). Use 3-oz. shot glasses ($4.50 for 10; smartyhadaparty.com).Brown has a fervent interest in pairing cocktails with food, and the prix fixe menu's second course lets him flex his bar-chef muscles. He muses that "lines that have been blurred between cooking and bartending are [now] redrawn as this: bartending is a branch of the food arts." Inventive fork-and-bottle combinations have included a Pomegranate Golden Gin Fizz with Old Tom Gin paired with Frisee Salad with Pomegranate Vinaigrette, Lardons and a Poached Quail Egg; and the Calvados- and Dubonnet-based Arnage with celery and aromatic bitters, served alongside Chicken and Apple Sausage with a Cabernet Reduction, Celery Root Puree and Espelette Pepper. An upcoming libation will feature Oude (old) Genever, Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur and the Columbia Room's Forbidden Fruit and Lemon Bitters, partnered with Steamed Local Clams in Sake and Ginger.A FOCUS ON PAIRINGS AND INTERACTIVITYSHAKE IT UP Plan to have lots of different desserts (brownies, sugar cookies, cupcakes, lemon squares) to make the party feel festive. Estimate at least four or five sweets per person.Kelly Magyarics is a wine and spirits writer, and wine educator, in the Washington D.C. area.FOR A HANDY LIST OF BENJAMIN'S TIPS, GO TO sunset.com/weekend

Kelly Magyarics is a wine and spirits writer, and wine educator, in the Washington D.C. area.

Author: Kelly A. Magyarics