Just desserts

An all-sweets shindig is a great way to splurge on flavor--not your bottom line. L.A. pastry chef Diana Sproveri of Di's Kitchen, whose fans include David Schwimmer and Jennie Garth, dishes on how to host a delicious dessert party ... even if you can't bake.

KEEP PORTIONS SMALL "Don't serve anything larger than a regular-size cupcake," says Sproveri. Tip: Softer desserts can be chilled in the freezer, then cut into small squares or other shapes.GO RETRO Desserts feel old-fashioned--in a good way. Pick up vintage dishes at a secondhand store and, if you stick to one color, don't be afraid to mix and match styles. That's part of the fun.A visit to the Columbia Room, recently named by Bon Appetit magazine as one of the top ten new cocktail bars in the United States, involves a bit more than strolling in and bellying up to the bar. To assure a civilized experience, advanced reservations are required to secure one of ten coveted seats and guests are encouraged to "go all out" and dress up for the occasion. A $64 tasting menu includes three drinks and a small plate from the kitchen. An a la carte option is also available. Patrons opting for the former start with an opening drink that could range from a Champagne cocktail to a warm mug of mulled wine, depending on the season.UPGRADE YOUR COOKIE JAR Display cookies in glass apothecary vessels with a pair of tongs.But despite an atmosphere that on paper sounds esoterically exclusive, in reality hospitality at the Columbia Room is gracious and decidedly inclusive. Approachability, rather than elitism, is the goal here. Travels to Japan sparked Brown's interest in incorporating the concept of omakase into the buzz-worthy bar he launched last year. Translated to "it's up to you" and akin to the exchange between a sushi chef and a diner, omakase behind the stick allows the mixologist creativity carte blanche, while giving guests input about what goes into the shaker. "I take notes from small Japanese bars in Tokyo but let people in on the process of making cocktails," he explains.Tell us about your Studio Bloom classes. The next class is November 17 ($60 for lecture and materials; passifloradesigns.com), and we'll be using different kinds of pods, berries, mini pumpkins, squashes, and gourds. You'll go home with a great arrangement for your Thanksgiving table.What to serveDON'T FORGET THE DRINKS! "Sweets make us thirsty," Sproveri says. Set up a separate table with wine or Champagne, coffee, tea, or hot chocolate, and an ice bucket with pitchers of water and milk.Hour-long classes held on Saturday afternoon, starting at $65 per person, touch on topics ranging from attractive yet practical garnishes and Pisco, to the secret behind that perfect Martini (the Columbia Room was lauded recently by GQ magazine as offering the best Martini in America). "Our classes are almost like elective courses for mixology--focusing on either techniques or flavors," explain Brown. Attendees run the gamut from fellow "cocktail nerds," as Brown describes himself to veritable amateurs seeking to become confident home bartenders.Any venue, regardless of size, theme, location or quantity of drinks served per evening, can benefit from a dash or two of Brown's philosophy. "Be open to talking to people, answering questions and having conversation," he recommends. "Making a great drink is important, but your goal is to make people happy."During an evening at the Columbia Room, Brown enthusiastically answers questions and offers up tips and anecdotes for spirits newbies and curious cocktailians alike. This accessibility is most apparent in the final tasting course, where Brown queries guests to glean information about flavor and base spirit preferences before creating a customized drink for each one. "We've noticed lots of requests for whiskey drinks," he notes, including classic and modern riffs on the Manhattan, Sazerac and Old Fashioned. Beverages with unusual bitter elements also frequently cross the bar. "We've made some fig bitters in house that have been aging in barrel for about two months now and are delicious in an Old Fashioned."QUALITY CHECK If you're not baking, try to source desserts from local bakeries, not the packaged-cookie aisle of the grocery store. Preservatives affect taste.* BUDGET BONUS Desserts are deliciously cheap compared with dinner ingredients or a full bar.How to get the lookSTYLE LIKE A PRO Her trick to pump up humdrum desserts like brownies: "Cut them in small squares, dust with powdered sugar, and place in fanned-out mini-muffin liners."PLAY WITH HEIGHTS "Different levels add to the appeal of the food," says Sproveri, who arranges cupcakes on towers and mini cakes and bars on tiers and cake plates.

MINI MILK 'N' COOKIES (right) Bake or buy chocolate chip cookies to sit atop milk-filled shot glasses. If making your own, use small scoops of dough; if buying, try a small cookie like Mrs. Field's Nibblers ($20 for 24; mrsfields.com). Use 3-oz. shot glasses ($4.50 for 10; smartyhadaparty.com).